les cocottes de Constant

Chef de cuisine

Philippe Cadeau

Maitre d' Hotel

Julie Letourneux

Figaroscope just voted Les Cocottes de Christian Constant "Le Meilleur Comptoir 2007". The long thin contemporary space, designed by Luis Alleluia, a hip French version of an American diner buzzes from dawn to dusk. There's a super-chic crowd of locals loving Constant's brand new concept, which could well become a brand. Sarko was there recently, with ten close personals, but didn't drink wine. Pity, he could have had a nice glass of Premieres Côtes de Blaye 2005.

No booking, just good fresh food all day when you want it. An army of chefs, headed by the talented Philippe Cadeau, in state-of-the-art kitchens, produce soothing, simple dishes.

Starters include sensational pumpkin soup or crème de lentilles. La Vraie salade César Ritz. "And where else can you get a Jambon Ibaiona from Ospital with fresh bread and a good glass of wine", asks Constant. "That's why I've launched Les Cocottes, to give people what they want to eat."

Still with the starters: Les Verrinesare glasses layered with fresh crab and sucrine. Or tuna, caviar d'aubergines and tomato jelly. Terrine de campagne or an omelette. You choose the filling.

Mouthwatering Cocottes include, say, stuffed pig's feet, pommes de terres Carrelet (plaice) Dugléré, fluffy rice. Shoulder of lamb confite, boulangere potatoes and the vegtarian alternative, Cocotte of seasonal baby vegetables Cocotte of wood pigeon is a seasonal special, with a purée of creamy potatoes. Plump Saint Jacques sit on a froth of beurre d'orange and endives. Beef eaters will love Contre filet à la plancha, salt, pepper, and mixed salad. There's also a Feuilleté of game and creamy scrambled eggs with truffles or take a half portion as a starter.

Don't leave without tasting, La fabuleuse tarte au chocolat de Christian Constant, served with crème Chantilly or Chef's favourite Waffle à la Chantilly, chocolate, caramel and beurre demi sel. Fromage Basque with black cherry jam by Christine Ferber (buy it to take home). Chocolate Mousse Roseline Old fashioned vanilla flan Prune/cherry clafoutis and Crumble of the day.

From wines that are favourites of Christian Constant choose Pic Saint Loup 2005, Clos Marie or a fine white from Corsica Clos Canarelli, many are available by the glass.

And it's Staub starring in it's own show that's causing the sensation.

You know Staub, they're the cast iron enamel oven-to-table casseroles famous for retaining heat and flavour. Apparently it's something to do with their smooth enamel bottoms, "the more you use them, the better they get", smiled Francis Staub, who'd popped into Les Cocottes to test the product one day last week.

Staub comes from a culinary background, grandfather had a cookery store in Alsace and, in 1974, Francis bought a cast iron factory, in brief, Staub cookware was born. During manufacturing, a sand mould is made for each cast iron piece and then it's destroyed, so each piece is unique. It can take up to a full working day to make one piece. That's kitchen art n'est pas?

"Staub cookware's design is so technically advanced that it actually helps enhance the flavours", says chef Cadeau.

So hurry along to Cocottes, sip espressos, Pastis, read the newspapers, munch a sandwich, buy Christine Ferber jams, Staub casseroles and other provisions. Order salads, soups, verrines, cocottes, quiches, desserts to take home, "off course I made them", you'll say. There's a breakfast formula, tapas in the evening, brunch on weekends. It's a whole new world chez Cocottes, and you're going to love it. Every 'hood' needs a Cocotte.

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